Trang Islands

Trang Province

South Thailand’s Trang Province and islands occupy a stretch of scenic Andaman Sea coastline between popular Krabi to the north and less-visited Satun further south on the Malaysian border. Extensive areas of well-preserved mangroves line sections of the coast while in the interior, jungle-clad mountains, featuring several spectacular waterfalls, reach up to the peninsula’s central watershed beyond which, to the east, lies Phattalung Province and the Gulf of Thailand.

The eponymous provincial capital is today a medium-sized, laid-back town with a roughly central position within the province. Trang town was an important port in ancient times while its subsequent renown as a centre for tin mining and the early rubber industry has contributed towards the presence of a significant and long-standing ethnic Chinese community. (This is reflected in the town’s cuisine as well as several excellent, traditional-style Chinese coffee shops.)

The rugged coastline features the same, dramatic limestone scenery which has made neighbouring Krabi Province famous, while Hat Chao Mai and Koh Petra National Parks are home to a clutch of picturesque, offshore islands. While not exactly undiscovered, the coastline and islands of Trang are certainly far less developed in terms of tourism than Koh Phi Phi, Ao Nang, Koh Lanta, Pha Nga Bay et al to the north. There are some delightful resorts, unspoilt beaches and plenty of uninhabited islands to visit on boat trips while Trang Airport’s regular connections to Bangkok allow for convenient access. For those wishing to explore the Andaman Coast’s turquoise waters and karst formations without the crowds, Trang makes for a great outside-the-box choice.

Trang Islands to stay on

Several of the larger Trang islands feature resorts, while certain of the islands within the above-mentioned national parks have camping facilities. Many smaller islets and rocky outcrops, however, remain uninhabited. (We can think of at least one example of an island that shouldn’t have resorts on it but does – but we’ll come to that later.)

The principal inhabited islands lie short distances off the coast in Sikao and Kantang Districts and include Koh Muk, (officially part of Hat Chao Mai National Park), Koh Ngai, (which actually just squeezes into the southern tip of Krabi Province but is generally accessed from Trang), and Koh Libong, just outside Koh Petra National Park but which includes the Koh Libong Wildlife Sanctuary.

Koh Muk, (or Mook), situated directly opposite Hat Chao Mai, is home to a number of resort options from backpacker-style through to mid-range. While still relatively low-key compared to certain other Thai islands, its principal beach, Charlie Beach, is quite developed and will get busy during peak season. Other well-known sites on Koh Muk include the picturesque cove, Sabai Beach and the famous Emerald Cave. The cave consists of a collapsed sinkhole featuring a tiny white sand beach with a jungle backdrop which can only be reached by swimming, or kayaking at low tide, through a tunnel from the sea. The site is included on many day trips from Koh Lanta and can get very busy so – if you do want to visit this spectacular site – go early.

Koh Ngai lies a short distance northwest of Koh Muk but is, as we said, officially part of Krabi Province, albeit one that is most easily accessed from Trang. The small island is elongated in form with a sandy beach on its eastern coast, home to a string of resorts and restaurants.

Our clear favourite of the three is Koh Libong, situated slightly south of the previous two in Kantang District. Although larger, significant parts of the island are designated protected areas  – Libong is one of the last remaining habitats for the highly endangered dugong, meaning that private resort construction has been limited. Tourist development is principally limited to the southern section of the island, although unlike Koh Ngai or Koh Muk, Libong possesses several stretches of sandy shoreline, meaning accommodation options are more spread out rather than being concentrated on a single beach. While Libong’s topography is generally undulating rather than rugged, the island is very well placed for boat trips to discover the spectacular islets and scenery of both Koh Petra to the south and Hat Chao Mai to the north and east. The northern coast of the island, which includes the boat jetty, also features a traditional fishing village which is worth exploring.

Trang Islands to visit on a boat trip

A short distance northwest of Libong lies what is perhaps the most famous of Trang Islands, Koh Kradan. The long, thin island features a spectacular white sand beach and reef along its eastern coast and Kradan consistently registers high up on lists of the most beautiful Thai (and even World) islands. As with Koh Muk, Kradan is part of Chao Mai National Park, but several resorts now line this stunning beach. However, the island is tiny, has very limited or non-existent freshwater sources and there has been a noticeable degradation of the reef within a relatively short time frame. In our opinion, any permanent form of sustainable or eco-friendly infrastructure on the island is impossible and we feel private resorts should not be allowed. Camping facilities and responsible day trips are fine, but you won’t ever see us booking a resort in Koh Kradan.

Ditto Koh Laoliang – twin islands lying south of Libong in Koh Petra Marine Park. These spectacular limestone outcrops are some of the most stunning islands we’ve seen anywhere in Thailand but once again, they are totally unsuited for private development. There used to be an ill-conceived, private camping set-up on the larger of the two islands but we’re delighted to see it appears to be no more. (There are contradictory rumours and if it hasn’t yet been closed down, it ought to be as soon as possible.) A major advantage is that Loaliang is just a bit too far to include on most day trips from Lanta but if you’re staying on nearby Libong – don’t miss it.

Another postcard-perfect pair of islands – lying some way offshore beyond Kradan – is Koh Rok. As with Koh Ngai, the islands are officially part of Krabi Province and Koh Lanta National Marine Park but once again are more easily accessed from Trang islands. Happily, over the years, the Thai National Parks Department has been a lot more sincere in their protection efforts with regard to Koh Rok than certain other islands and to our knowledge, no private development has ever been attempted.  Camp there or include it on an island-hopping day tour and don’t forget your mask and snorkel.

Trang on our Thailand tours

As you’ve by now gathered, our clear favourite Trang island is low-key Koh Libong. Great location with easy access to surrounding sites, excellent choice of resorts and a wide range of activities. Our got-to resort is the delightful Andalay Beach Resort but a big shout out also to the Libong Beach Resort and wherever you stay on Libong – do pop in for a cocktail or seafood meal.

However, another reason Trang Province regularly features on our Thailand small group tours and family specials is that apart from its stunning coast and pleasant provincial capital, the mountainous interior of the province holds numerous visit-worthy sites including caves, waterfalls, botanical gardens and even a canopy walkway. Furthermore, with the interior being even more off-the-beaten-track than Trang islands, many of these sites see very few foreign visitors. Climate patterns make Trang islands suitable for the late October-November period through to April, early May.