Noodle soups of Southeast Asia
Myriad is not an exaggeration so this post is very much a rundown on just a few of the most iconic noodle soups of Southeast Asia you may come across on one of our small group tours of the region. We’re referring to Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam, so there will be, predictably, considerable culinary overlap and cross-cultural influences among those neighbouring nations. Otherwise, to keep things simple and the post to a reasonable length, we’re skipping the more South Asian style offerings of Sri Lanka for now, as well as the bewildering array of Chinese noodle soups which would form a book length tome in its own right. (Noodles are generally considered to originate in China and thus provides the ultimate provenance of most of the below regional variations.)
On a general note, we’d point out that, firstly, noodle soups are very much eaten as one-off, personal dishes as opposed to curries, stir-fries, salads and so-on which may be eaten as part of a communal meal among friends and family. Secondly, noodle soups of Southeast Asia are usually, albeit not exclusively, a morning – breakfast or lunch – food and many specialised cafes may be closed in an evening, while larger establishments may not serve noodles once past lunch time.
A classic fried noodle dish – pad Thai – with or without prawns makes a great vegetarian option Finally, before we start our rundown, also bear in mind that regardless of the main ingredients you may select – fish, meat, vegetables – the broth or soup stock, which is now bubbling away and will have been prepared well in advance, invariably contains meat products. Strictly vegetarian versions are not traditional and will generally only be available in specialist eateries. All is not lost however as certain of the below noodle soups, particularly Thai ones, are available ‘dry’ – without the stock – while plenty of fried noodle options can be found.
Cambodia
Cambodia’s modern-day cuisine is heavily influenced by that of its larger neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam, and this applies equally to its most popular noodle soups. Vietnamese pho, rice noodles in a beef broth (see Vietnam), plus the Thai-style kuay taew (there are many spelling variations for this one) – a usually lighter soup than pho, frequently served with pork – are ubiquitous, as is the hugely popular dish nom banh chok. Again, you’ll see as many spelling variants as you will regional versions but basically the latter consists of rice noodles in a mild curry sauce. It is usually fish based while additional ingredients include lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, crushed peanuts, grated banana flower and prahok, (fermented fish paste).
Local style nom banh chok in a Battambang market, Cambodia Indonesia
A continent-sized nation has a correspondingly huge array of noodle soup options and variations on Malaysian laksa (we say Malaysian though many Indonesians will disagree) as well as Thai-style kuay taew are common. For now we’ll just give a mention to what is possible Indonesia’s signature noodle soup, soto. With so many variations around, soto defies easy description but basically uses vermicelli-style, thin rice noodles in a mild, coconut broth and is commonly served with chicken or beef. Shallots, coriander, lime, bean sprouts, peanuts, egg and chilies are just a few of the options you can add. Here’s a good looking recipe for soto ayam but in Indonesia no two are alike.
Beef soto in Yogyakarta. (It’s usually mild and the chilli paste is optional) Laos
As is the case with Cambodia, Lao cuisine in general – and of course its noodle soups – are inspired by both Vietnam and Thailand although distinct Chinese influences are also apparent. Kanom chin, the Laos and Thailand term for the Khmer Nom banh chok, along with classic Vietnamese pho are both commonly seen. (The latter pretty much replaces the usually ubiquitous kuay taew in Laos.)
Khao piak sen is a strong contender for a Lao signature noodle soup and combines rice and tapioca flour noodles served with fresh herbs and usually chicken. It’s more complex than certain other noodle soups of Southeast Asia but you can check out the recipe’s intricacies and history of the dish on the this very good khao piak sen post.
Malaysia
The ubiquitous laksa, (also commonly found in Indonesia), is a shoo-in for Malaysia’s most iconic noodle soup dish although, as you might imagine, numerous, distinct regional variations exist. Penang laksa uses mackerel and includes tamarind paste, Ipoh laksa is notably more sour and features shrimp paste, while KL’s curry laksa often uses wheat noodles. Malacca laksa, sometimes known as Nyonya laksa, is probably the original version as the dish is thought to have evolved from Nyonya, Peranakan or Straights Chinese cuisine.
Across the water, in Borneo, Sarawak State’s less fishy version often features chicken instead of mackerel and incidentally was referred to by no less an authority as Anthony Bourdain as ‘breakfast of the gods’!
Another version – Sabah laksa in Borneo’s Kota Kinabalu Although we avoid linking to it, Wiki’s comprehensive laksa entry describes over 30 common variations as well as showing a very useful comparative ingredients chart indicating precisely what goes into each version.
Thailand
Ordering a Thai noodle soup can be a complicated process for the uninitiated. Taking the standard, generic name for noodle soup, kuay taew, (versions of which we’ve already described in Cambodia, Laos etc), you first specify which kind of noodles, yellow/wheat or white/rice you prefer followed by the preferred size/width of the strands, thick, medium, thin, very thin and so-on. You then choose your main ingredient, meat or fish balls, chicken, pork, red pork, beef or combinations of, depending of course on what the cafe has to offer. Finally you select a stock or broth which again depends on what the noodle soup has ready but may include clear or dark, (nam sai or nam kon), perhaps a tom yam broth or even kuay taew rua, (boat noodles) whose richer stock incorporates a dash of pig’s blood. (This Serious Eats post gives you a good rundown on the full process.)
Kuay taew with meatballs, and thin rice noodles A much more straightforward option and to our mind possibly one of the best noodle soups of Southeast Asia is the north Thai khao soi. This features both soft and crispy yellow noodles, a rich curry broth and is generally served with chicken so not much decision making involved in this one. The dish is probably of Muslim Yunnanese origin but is today ubiquitous in Chiang Mai and right across northern Thailand.
Khao soi in Chiang Mai Vietnam
Vietnam’s signature noodle dish, pho bo, is another shoo-in and is probably one of Southeast Asia’s best known noodle soups outside of its homeland. The standard version is rice noodles in a beef broth and, like many of the above soups, actually begins life as a rather mild, almost plain dish. It’s the consumer’s selection of accompanying herbs, sauces and condiments that brings the dish to life. The soup should come with a pile of herbs and fresh vegetable including bean sprouts, coriander, basil, lime and fresh chillies along with and sriracha – Vietnamese chilli sauce.
Bun bo Hue, Hue style beef or pork noodle soup Needless to say Vietnam does have a multitude of alternative noodle soups and we’ll add a special shout out for our personal favourite, . As the name says this is a Hue take on the classic pho and is said to be derived from the royal cuisine of the former imperial court. The noodles are slightly thicker than usual and the stock richer, combining spicy, sour, sweet and savoury flavours.
