Sigiriya
Sri Lanka’s Sigiriya, ancient city and rock fortress, is undoubtedly one of the most most spectacular of the country’s 8 UNESCO-listed World Heritage Sites. It can also be for some visitors, one of the most daunting.
Although a 200 metre high outcrop might not sound too imposing, it is shear-sided and an ascent involves no less than 1200 steps, a lot of which overhang the void. Some of the steps are ancient – carved out of the rock – others metal but either way, that’s a lot of steps. They are well-maintained and come with railings – so safety shouldn’t be a concern – but that won’t come as any comfort if you suffer from vertigo. Mild vertigo – just avoid looking down – but if you’re afflicted by more severe vertigo then the climb is maybe best avoided altogether. (There is still plenty to do and see at the foot of the cliffs but more on that later.)
Sigiriya – the view from the top Much of the staircase is narrow and single file with certain sections being 2-way while others feature separate up and down routes. At around the halfway point you’ll reach the Lion’s Paws – a flat terrace on the rock’s northern face features a pair of giant, carved paws – which makes the first significant stopping and resting point. (There are several, small platforms on the way up where you can take a quick break and admire the view.) The second half of the climb takes you from between the paws to the summit and is probably the steepest section of the main route.
Needless to say early morning or late afternoon are the best times to visit as Sigiriya is less crowded and not so hot.
The overall historic site, the oldest sections of which date back to the 5th century, encompasses an ancient city surrounding the foot of the outcrop and a palace and fortress on its summit so you can still visit Sigiriya without making the ascent and views from ground level can be as spectacular as they are from the summit. Furthermore, you don’t have to decided in advance so once at the foot, have a look, see how you’re feeling, how your energy levels are doing and then decide whether you like the look of it or not.
Sigiriya, view from the bottom Having started out there are spots where you can simply turn around if you’ve changed your mind while the Lion’s Paw, halfway mark can be a compromise goal. Note the famous Maidens of the Clouds rock paintings can be viewed by way of a a spiral staircase detour from the lower section, on one of the ‘up’ only passages. (There’s not much room and this detour can get crowded.) Remember that, whatever your choices, make sure you keep your fellow travellers and/or guide updated and, of course, just take it slow and steady.
Some of the terraces, grottoes and gardens at the foot of the outcrop Personally, having reached the top on our first visit despite our vertigo, we’ve thoroughly enjoyed just exploring the lower sections on subsequent visits. You can wander around the outcrop’s base getting different views and photo angles as well as getting lost among the boulder and rock gardens in the forested areas of the lower level. It’s also great for bird-life as well as for the unusual, and very friendly, giant squirrels. (They’re friendly since locals like to feed them bananas.)
A grizzled giant squirrel, ratufa macroura, can reach nearly 1 metre in length, (including tail) A visit to Sigiriya, with our without a climb to the top, is included in both our Sri Lanka small groups tour itineraries, Island of Serendipity and World Heritage Tour, as well as our 2 week, special Sri Lanka family tour.
