Chiang Mai Street food

Chiang Mai Street food

Firstly, we’ll point out that we’re employing the phrase Chiang Mai street food in its broadest sense, which includes local cafes, markets, food halls/courts and so on rather than just food that’s literally cooked on a street. Conversely, we’re ignoring the upmarket, tourist-orientated, restaurants and hotels that are increasingly jumping on the popularity bandwagon by adding so-called street food to their menus. Carved tomato roses are not intrinsic elements and $10-plus price tags are certainly not typical of genuine Chiang Mai street food. Street food to us is cheap, cheerful and authentic and exists regardless of tourists rather than because of tourists.

We’ve lived in Thailand’s northern capital for over 25 years now, so Chiang Mai street food is certainly close to our heart and we’d count ourselves reasonably knowledgeable on the subject. As well as classic Thai dishes, we’ll therefore include a few local, northern specialities on our list as well as some examples of the ubiquitous Isan fare. Many of the actual dishes have been described in various earlier posts, but below we’ll also suggest a few of our favourite spots to find them, along with a rough price guide.

Khao Soi

While this iconic noodle soup is found right across northern Thailand, khao soi is a strong candidate for Chiang Mai’s signature dish. The noodles are yellow (wheat flour), rather than rice ones and come in both soft and crispy forms in the same bowl. The stock is a rich, coconut milk-based curry sauce and true to its origins as a Yunnanese Muslim dish, is typically made with chicken or beef rather than pork.

Several Chiang Mai khao soi joints now have Michelin mentions but predictably, this can be a bit of a kiss-of-death as it often results in a doubling of prices and lengthy queues to get a table. The well-known Khao Soi Mae Sai (Ratchapuek Alley) is an example of the latter and definitely not worth waiting 30 minutes for, while Kao Soy Soi Nimman (Nimmanhemin Soi 7) has not only doubled their prices but it seems to us, halved their portions. Our go-to is still Khao Soi Khun Yai (Sri Poom Road), which serves large bowls of awesome khao soi for 55-60 baht, although this is another place where if you arrive after 11.30 you’ll likely wait for a table.

Most food courts, such as those at the Airport Plaza or Central Festival malls, serve competent khao sois. Unfortunately, since the chicken is cooked in the soup stock, strictly vegetarian alternatives are not generally available.

Sai hua – north Thai sausage

Hugely popular with locals and visitors alike, coils of these spicy pork sausages can be seen sizzling on grills in many local and street markets and should not be missed. The links begin life anything up to a metre long and you just specify how much you’d like. The vendor will then slice off, for example, 50 or 100 baht’s worth of ready-grilled sausage, which is in turn cut into bite-sized pieces. You’ll see them on any north Thai restaurant menu but we’d say they’re best eaten as nibbles with a pre-dinner drink or cold beer.

Laap Muang – north Thai-style laap

Classic laap combines minced pork with lime juice, spring onions, chillies and mint with dry-roasted, uncooked rice crumbs providing a nutty, crunchy addition. (Duck, chicken or catfish alternatives are commonly seen.) The dish is ubiquitous in Thailand but is originally Isan, or Lao, and indeed lays a good claim to be the Lao national dish. Laap muang, sometimes called laap Chiang Mai, is a northern Thai twist on the standard recipe, incorporating pig’s blood into the sauce to create a rich, black pudding-style flavour. (Various pieces of tripe, liver and so on are usually included, but you can pick these out.)

Unlike many Thai offerings, this isn’t a short-order dish, so it’s generally encountered among pre-cooked market fare, such as the spectacular arrays at Thanin Market.

Som tam – green papaya salad

Another iconic Isan and Lao dish, the crunchy, sour and spicy salad often accompanies laap or grilled chicken, although stand-alone som tam stands are ubiquitous in food courts and street markets. Isan versions often incorporate fish paste (pa-la) and/or pickled paddy-field crabs (not one of our favourites either), which are absent in Thai variants that are therefore readily adapted for vegetarians. Just look out for stands with the giveaway mortars and pestles. Should cost around 30 to 40 baht, but again, this is one you’ll see advertised as ‘street food’ in fancier restaurants with the proverbial, carved tomato roses and a 200 baht price tag. (Note: this dish can be very spicy so Thais will specify the number of chillies required. Som tam Isan 2 chillies or som tam Thai 1 chilli and so on.)

Khao kha mo – slow stewed pork shank

Although not specifically a Chiang Mai dish, one of the country’s most famous slow-stewed pork leg proponents can be found in the town’s Chang Puak Gate night market. The ‘woman with the cowboy hat’ has appeared in more than one food travel programme, including Anthony Bourdain’s well-worth watching Parts Unknown. The dish is encountered the length and breadth of Chiang Mai and Thanin Market also has decent offerings as do the earlier-mentioned food courts. Overall, we do feel the above-mentioned night market has both decreased in quality and increased in price as it has become increasingly popular with foreign visitors but the ‘cowboy lady’ still serves up a very good version for, we think, around 60 baht.

Khao mo kop – crispy pork on rice

Another pork dish and at this point, we will point out that while Chiang Mai street food includes myriad vegetarian options, many of the traditional, classic dishes which we’re describing here do involve meat or fish. This iconic breakfast dish features fried belly pork with crackling on rice, accompanied by a sauce, soup and boiled egg. Certainly a lot less healthy than say fruit, yoghurt and muesli to start the day, it is, however, basically the Thai equivalent of bacon and eggs so not as unusual as it at first may seem. Difficult to get wrong, excellent versions are available in any market or food court for between 50 and 70 baht. (Kuay Teo Phet in the strip of local cafes on Intrawororot Road does a particularly excellent version for around 65-70 baht.)

Khao khluk kapi

While very popular among locals, khao khluk kapi, or rice mixed with shrimp paste, lacking the cachet of say pad Thai or khao soi, is equally little-known among visitors. The mildly flavoured rice is accompanied by small side servings of egg, grated green papaya, uncooked red onions and green beans, peanuts, fried pork and often slices of Chinese sausage. Accompaniments do vary considerably, and while it is easy to skip the pork or sausage, the shrimp paste is unavoidable. Not often seen in street markets, but a food court standard which, with an accompanying bowl of soup, will set you back some 50 baht.

Kuay teo rua – boat noodles

Just one of a seemingly infinite number of noodle soup varieties, ‘boat noodles’ as the translation goes, are a particularly popular version in these parts. The stock is thicker and richer than most noodle soups – khao soi excepted – due to the broth also including pig’s blood. (Yes, that’s two dishes incorporating what some may turn their noses up at, but bear in mind, black pudding is a common element of a traditional ‘full English’.)

It’s generally pork or beef and/or meatballs with rice noodles and fresh herbs and chillies are added as required. This hearty soup, particularly suitable for Chiang Mai’s cooler winter months, should cost around 50 baht.

Other faves

Pat kra pao – minced pork with chilli and basil, pad Thai and the signature dessert, mango and sticky rice, have been well-covered in other posts, so for length of post reasons we’ll skip those classics in favour of a rundown on some locations. (Note that some of the tourist faves, such as green curry or massaman, require longer cooking times and do not really come under street food although they will be seen among pre-prepared offerings in markets such as Thanin or certain food courts.)

Some recommended food spots

Food courts

Found in any reasonably sized mall, such food halls or courts are primarily targetting local shoppers, so provide excellent spots to find some authentic – and authentically-priced – Thai and Chiang Mai street food. Our firm favourite is the vast array of options on show at Airport Plaza (basement floor opposite the aquarium and behind the well-known burger chain outlet). Any and all of the above are available along with cooked-to-order options, desserts, salads and even a few Western alternatives such as burgers or fried chicken, so ideal for families where perhaps more adventurous parents have fussier kids? (A huge generalisation since in our experience of running family tours, many of the younger members are at least as open to trying new stuff as the older ones.) We particularly like the South Thai food stall – far left corner from the entrance – although as a warning, southern Thai cuisine can be very spicy. A ladle of curry on rice is 50 baht or two different curries is 60.

The upmarket Maya Lifestyle Mall on Huay Kaew Road has plenty of good offerings, although prices are correspondingly significantly higher, while the enormous Central Festival Mall on the eastern, inner ring road has a disappointingly small food hall. Some food halls work on vouchers, others on cash, so you wander around, choose, order, pay, then carry your selection to a table of your choice, meaning four people can eat at four different food stalls but still eat together. (Most dishes will be between 40 and 70 baht each.)

Night markets

The three best-known in Chiang Mai are the pavement food markets at Chang Puak and Chiang Mai Gates along the city’s moat road plus the sprawling collection of courts and eating areas around the Night Bazaar on Chang Klan Road. The former is increasingly popular with Western and Chinese visitors and we have found that in recent times service and quality have dropped and prices risen, so the smaller of the two, Chiang Mai Gate on the south side, is probably our preferred. Food at the busy, tourist-orientated Night Bazaar is definitely pricier and many of the offerings are now international rather than local food; however, there is a huge choice and additional stands offer beer and even cocktails. See, for example, Kalare Food Centre, Anusarn Market or Phaploen Market. Very popular but not our favourite.

Walking Street markets

The two main ones are the Sunday Market on Ratchadamnoen Road and the Saturday version on Wua Lai. The former is larger and gets very busy during high season, so we have a distinct preference for the less hectic, more manageable Saturday one. Both offer tons of snack-style local food at okay prices, although we find Wua Lai seems to have more seated, eating options. Both are outdoor street markets, so weather-dependent, but for either, we’d say getting there early is a good idea.

Municipal/local markets

The largest and best-known city market is sprawling Worarot (Kat Luang) in the Chinatown area of east Chiang Mai. A great area for a wander, although some of the smaller district markets are also very good. Our clear favourite is Thanin Market, in the city’s Santitham area (also known as Siri Wattana Market), which has a spectacular array of takeaway, ready-prepared dishes as well as a good food court. Smaller Don Phayom, slightly west of the centre on Suthep Road, has an excellent collection of local specialities, including sizzling sai hua, mountains of kep mo (pork scratchings served with chilli dip), and the obligatory fried insects, but does lack seated eating areas.

Kad Kom Market, off Soi Suriyawong, just south of the old city, also possesses a clutch of very good local eateries, including the reputed Khao Soi Lung Prakit (Uncle Prakit’s Khao Soi).

Another market, also very slightly out of the centre, is the Jing Jai Farmer’s Market, which sets up on weekends along Atsodothon Road close to the city’s huge flower and plant market, Kam Thiang. The largely organic fare is popular with expats and perhaps better-healed locals, so prices are slightly higher, but there is some good grazing to be had and the adjacent flower market is a fantastic spot to walk off your snacks.

Some random eateries

An obvious choice in the town centre is the strip of local eateries along Intraworarot Road just south of the 3 Kings Monument. The Chiang Mai History Museum and Arts and Cultural Centre are located on the opposite side of the road. Each family-run cafe tends to specialise in one particular dish, such as noodle soup, khao soi, Hainanese chicken rice, crispy pork, etcetera. Very popular with local office workers and students, at least one has a Michelin recommendation, while the chicken on rice joint proudly proclaims, ‘serving since 1957’.  All very authentic, with most prices in the 50 to 60 baht range.

Another strip of local cafes well worth seeking out away from the centre is on Soi 8 in the popular Nimmanhemin District. These include a little-known but remarkably good khao soi joint, the excellent Uncle Pan’s, J-Yay organic and Nong Bee’s, which serves classic Thai as well as some very authentic and very cheap Burmese and Shan alternatives. Wouldn’t hesitate to recommend any of them and as this strip is popular with Thais and expats, there are plenty of vegetarian and vegan options.

We’ve already mentioned Khao Soi Khun Yai on the inner, northern moat road, although crossing over and heading slightly north takes you into the lanes of the Santitham Quarter – another excellent part of town for digging out some local cafes. Santitham Road itself is lined with cafes, with a particular shout-out for the excellent Het Saep around the corner on Charoensuk. Very friendly family preparing all things crispy pork, so spicy belly pork curry, pat kra pao moo kop, etcetera.

The above are just a few that sprang to mind and Chiang Mai’s a big town without even venturing into the ‘burbs so we’ll check with some friends and family and probably come back with a street food in Chiang Mai part 2 but that’ll do for starters.