Off-the-beaten-track Temples
If one checked tourist arrivals and length of stay in Cambodia it would quickly become apparent that the vast majority of foreign visitors to the kingdom don’t get much further than the Angkor Historical Park on the outskirts of Siem Reap. Spectacular as these jungle-clad, ruined temples are, often equally impressive, but far less-visited, off-the-beaten-track temples can be discovered in all four corners of the country.
Three such sites are already on UNESCO’s World Heritage list with three more on the tentative list. While you’re never going to see every ancient temple in Cambodia – and we’re not suggesting a non-stop, temple-a-day tour – we would say that extending your stay to include at least one or two of these fabulous, albeit lesser-known, sites – perhaps interspersed with some of the numerous alternative activities the country has to offer – would greatly enhance any Cambodia tour.
1: Koh Ker, Preah Vihear Province
Strictly speaking Koh Ker refers to an entire ruined city rather than a single temple and comprises dozens of ruined sanctuaries scattered throughout a forested area some 120 kms northeast of Siem Reap. The spectacular site was recently added to the UNESCO list however, despite relative ease of access and proximity to the tourist hot spot of Siem Reap, visitor numbers remain very limited.
The city dates to the first half of the 10th century and contains several particularly picturesque sanctuaries such as Prasat Thom and Prasat Bram, seen below.
Prasat Bram at Koh Ker 2: Preah Khan of Kampong Svay, Preah Vihear Province
Although rarely visited, this huge, partially ruined, jungle-clad temple (also known as Prasat Bakan), is the largest in Cambodia, dwarfing even Angkor Thom in size. The site has a geographically central location in the country but until recently was very hard to access and…notorious for landmines. Happily, roads have been improved and mines cleared, although its remote location does deter all but the most enthusiastic. (The site lies approximately 3 hours east of Siem Reap and most of the route is now sealed. Once there, however, you still need to stick to the paths!)
The sprawling complex includes sanctuaries dating to the reigns of Suryavarman I and II as well as later, Jayavarman VII temples bearing the iconic giant faces. Due to the area’s rich iron ore deposits, Preah Khan is considered to have been the Khmer Empire’s principal industrial centre.
An early start from Siem Reap makes a day trip feasible and while it is admittedly a lengthy trip it also makes for an unforgettable visit – plus you’d have the vast site pretty much to yourself.
Busy day at Preah Khan, Kampong Svay 3: Sambor Prei Kuk, Kampong Thom Province
In our opinion, one of the most picturesque of Cambodia’s ancient sites, Sambor Prei Kuk city comprises numerous brick towers scattered throughout a forest north of centrally located Kampong Thom City. The site is also of great historical significance, as it dates all the way back to the late 6th to early 8th centuries, and in some respects can be considered to be the cradle of the Angkor civilisation.
Despite having been added to UNESCO’s list back in 2017 and relative ease of access (it is reached by sealed roads and lies approximately halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap), visitor numbers remain, regrettably, consistently low.
World Heritage Sambor Prei Kuk, Kampong Thom Province. 4: Preah Vihear, Preah Vihear Province
Located in the far north of the country, on the border with Thailand, the awe-inspiring, clifftop sanctuary of Prasat Preah Vihear was, until recently, another site that was very hard to get to. There are now good accommodation options in nearby Sra-Em Town and greatly improved roads make a day trip from Siem Reap practical (if long). It’s a site that is popular with local visitors at weekends but despite having been on the World Heritage list since 2008, foreign visitors are still few and far between.
12th century Preah Vihear on the Cambodian-Thai border 5: Banteay Chhmar, Banteay Meanchey Province
Another far-flung site, situated in the extreme northwest of the country, the rarely-visited Banteay Chhmar – or Citadel of the Cats – is Jayavarman VII’s largest temple. Once again – and you’ll be starting to see a theme here – poor roads made the impressive ruins very hard to reach until recent upgrades provided all-weather, sealed access. It’s still 3 hours from Siem Reap but various options on the way there and back make for an excellent day trip plus you’ll probably have the giant stone faces and impressive carvings all to yourself.
Currently on UNESCO’s tentative list and we’d say a shoo-in for full World Heritage status over the next year or two.
A multi-armed Lokeshvara relief at Banteay Chhmar 6: Prasat Ek Phnom, Battambang Province
Situated in a village just outside of Battambang City, Ek Phnom isn’t strictly speaking an off-the-beaten-track temple, but this attractive and relatively well-preserved, 11th-century temple is an overlooked one. The medium-sized, sandstone sanctuary houses a number of interesting carved reliefs and in our opinion deserves more than the trickle of visitors it currently receives. (As we said in our recent post, with Battambang generally following Siem Reap on Cambodia itineraries, visitors often arrive with ‘temple fatigue’ looking to see something other than more ruins!)
7: Phnom Chisor, Takeo Province
A relatively small, but spectacularly sited, temple featuring some well-preserved reliefs, Phnom Chisor is located in Takeo Province in the south of the country. It’s a mere hour and a half from Phnom Penh and situated close to a main highway, so is easily accessible, but while many visitors pass by on their way to Kep and Kampot, regrettably, few stop. It’s a bit of a climb up the hill but well worth it. (Again, it’s hardly remote but makes our off-the-beaten-track temples list simply because Takeo Province as a whole receives so few visitors.)
More cows than tourists at the under-the-radar Phnom Chisor 8: Ta Prom, Tonle Bati, Takeo Province
Not to be confused with the iconic Ta Prom at Angkor, this remarkably well-preserved, late 12th-century sanctuary is situated an hour or so south of Phnom Penh, aside Highway 2. The small, but highly attractive, temple is largely intact and features some stunning carvings – particularly on the central shrine, every inch of which is covered in intricate reliefs. A beautiful site that can be conveniently combined with the adjacent Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. Whether as a day trip from Phnom Penh or a stop on the way down to Kep or Kampot, this one shouldn’t be missed.
Ta Prom Tonle Bati – view of the central tower from the west gate 9: Prasat Kampong Preah, Kampong Chhnang Province
For much of the year, tiny Kampong Preah is surrounded by water and forms a small, square island amid the extensive marshlands surrounding the Tonle Sap Lake. Although just a short detour off Highway 5, it’s only accessible by boat for several months of the year which may partly explain the site’s complete lack of visitors. To be fair, the solitary standing tower is not the country’s most spectacular Angkorian temple, but dating to the historically obscure 8th century, it is one of great architectural and historical significance.
Some remarkable reliefs remain on the brick tower and the isolated location adds to the site’s charm.
10: Banteay Ampil, Siem Reap Province
A shout-out to one of our favourite off-the-beaten-track temples that is located in Siem Reap Province, but lies outside the actual Angkor Historical Park. These atmospheric, jungle-clad ruins are hidden away in a forest a mere 25 kms northeast of Siem Reap town but remain unknown to even many of the professional temple guides at Angkor. It did take us a long time to find it on our first visit and while new road construction in the area has made it easier to access it still requires a hike through paddy-fields and forest from the nearest road.
Prasat Banteay Ampil, Siem Reap On our Tours
As we said, you can’t see everything but these remarkable and rarely-visited sites do deserve the occasional visitor – if only to encourage their protection by the authorities – and adding at least one or two off-the-beaten-track temples to your itinerary offers a far better perspective of this remarkable ancient civilisation – as well as providing the thrill of discovering sites that few others do.
Our Beyond Angkor tour includes all four of Cambodia’s current UNESCO World Heritage listings – Sambor Prei Kuk, Koh Ker and Preah Vihear in addition to Angkor itself, as well as stops at Phnom Chisor and Ta Prom, (either side of a visit to Phnom Tamao Wildlife sanctuary) on our drive to and from Kep and Kampot. All three sites also appear on our 4-day extension or mini-tour, Kep, Kampot and Takeo.
Our Battambang cottage industries tour, featured on the Cambodia Overland and Vietnam and Cambodia tour, passes close to Prasat Ek Phnom which can included on request while a stop at Kampong Preah breaks up our return drive from Battambang to Phnom Penh so is also included on the two above itineraries.
Due to time constraints, the remoter sites such as Preah Khan Kampong Svay and Banteay Chhmar require extra days and would need to be organised in advance.
Note, for those with less time, even our shorter Highlights of Cambodia tour, squeezes in several rarely-visited sites – which only miss out on inclusion on our above list due to lack of space – such as Prasat Kok Roka, (the ‘Leaning Tower of Kampong Thom‘), Banteay Srei Dom Dek and the Angkor forest temple of Ta Nei Temple.
