Siem Reap Town
Formerly a small, sleepy provincial capital in northwestern Cambodia, Siem Reap has boomed in recent times to the point where it probably rivals Battambang as the country’s second city. The obvious draw are the spectacular ancient temples of World Heritage Angkor but there are plenty of other things to see and do in Siem Reap and despite its mushrooming growth, the town remains a very pleasant and laid-back destination.
Our Cambodia small group tours include a (relatively) unprecedented 4 nights in Siem Reap as we reckon this is the minimum time frame which allows a comprehensive, yet leisurely-paced, tour of the vast site. Squeezing in as many different temple sites into a short a period as possible does not do Angkor justice and, in our opinion, does not make for the memorable experience it ought to be, plus…as we’ve said there are plenty of other things to see and do to break up your temple visits and get the most out of both Angkor and Siem Reap.
We recall a guest, after his first two hours at Angkor, saying, “I’m a bit bored of temples, what else is there to do?” (A bit like going to Giza and saying I don’t care for pyramids.) We subsequently sat in a coffee shop with an expat buddy and compiled a list that filled an entire A4 page. Below then, are just a few of our favourite things to do and see in Siem Reap (apart from the obvious.)
The suburbs of Siem Reap What to see in Siem Reap
1. Angkor National Museum
Conveniently located a short walk from the town centre, this purpose-built, state-of-the-art museum was first opened in 2007 to display just a small part of the vast collection of spectacular artefacts dating to the Angkor and pre-Angkor periods. We’d say it’s best visited after having seen at least a few of the temple sites – to give the exhibits some perspective – and it’s a cool (temperature-wise) location for the middle of the day when you wouldn’t want to be clambering around the temples.
2. Apopo
Another site we’d recommend to anyone – and one that’s never received anything but rave views – is the Apopo Visitor Centre, located close to the National Museum. This non-profit organisation was created to assist with Cambodia’s, unfortunately still extensive, de-mining operations and with wonderful out-of-the-box thinking employs not Alsatian dogs or minesweepers but African giant pouched rats to do the work. (They’re remarkably fast, extremely efficient and of course, are not giant enough to set off any mines themselves.) You’ll be able to see a demonstration at the Centre and meet the very cute rats in person and your entrance fee is going to a very good cause as these rodents are very expensive to train and import.
A de-miner (plus trainer) at the Apopo Visitor Centre, Siem Reap 3. Phsa Chas – the Old Market
The small market, situated close to the riverbank in the centre of town, sells a bit of everything from fruit and vegetables to household goods and souvenirs, and, even if you’re not buying, it makes for a fascinating spot for a wander. There are hairdressers in profusion, barbers, nail salons, jewellery stands, spice stalls and plenty of coffee shops and local cafes around the market edge.
4. Phare Ponleu Selpak – The Battambang Circus
As the name suggests, the now-famous circus began life in Battambang back in the 90s, as a way of occupying kids and teenagers living in the numerous refugee camps established along the Thai border at the end of the Civil War. It’s certainly not a circus in a traditional sense and fuses dance, acrobatics and traditional music in a spectacular show. Highly recommended and again – a great cause.
5. Kampong Phleuk
Note that Siem Reap Province is large and includes many visit-worthy sites and, for now, we’re limiting our suggestions to in and around town but while Kampong Phleuk (sometimes written Phluk), is a bit of a drive, it is a great trip out so we’ll make a small exception.
The settlement is located in nearby Bakong District on the edge of the great Tonle Sap Lake and thus comprises a mixture of floating houses and tall, stilt constructions. Depending on water levels, your visit may be on foot or by boat or a combination but in our opinion, it makes for a fascinating visit at any time of year. There are closer ‘floating villages’, such as Chong Kneas, but they are correspondingly far more ‘touristy’. Any Siem Reap tuk-tuk driver will do the 30-minute drive and, if necessary, find a boat for you.
Kampong Phleuk Village 6. The West Baray
This 15 km square reservoir, located slightly west of the old Siem Reap Airport, was astonishingly constructed by hand back in the 11th century. Today, much of it still holds water and its sandy banks are the nearest thing Siem Reap has to a beach. Locals flock there at weekends so the kids can bathe and the parents can get their fill of Angkor Beer and fried chicken in a reservoir-side shack. All brilliant fun and very scenic, and if you feel adventurous after your picnic, then you can hire a boat to take you to the recently restored temple located on an island in the centre of the baray.
The West Baray. (Baray means reservoir in Khmer) What to do
7. Cycling
You’ll see a few shops in town renting bicycles (or your hotel or guesthouse may even possess some), so, if you’re feeling energetic, grab a bike and head out into the countryside. We’re not suggesting doing the temples on a bike – you’d be taking business away from the locals and wouldn’t necessarily know where you were going or what you were seeing – but just pick a country lane to the east, west or south and head off. You will have a few busy sections to negotiate getting out of town but Siem Reap’s not huge and you’d very soon find yourself on a quiet lane or track amid some picturesque landscapes and villages. Find a map or check Google and try the back lanes down to the lake at Phnom Kraom, take the track east towards Rolous or head out west to the scenic baray.
You’re quickly out of the town on a pushbike 8. Walking tour
Our favourite walk in Siem Reap would be up and down the riverbank. Follow the Siem Reap River path on one side and return on the other. How far upstream you go is, of course, up to you, but our starting point would be the Old Market and the turning-around spot would be Wat Preah Enkosei. The picturesque old monastery also houses some interesting Angkor-period ruins that few other visitors will see. At one point you will need to cross busy Highway 6 – after which you take the 4th bridge to reach the wat – but the rest of the walk is quiet and mainly tree-lined.
Wat Preah Enkosei 9. Spa and massage
As you’ll quickly find out spas and massage parlours are ubiquitous in Siem Reap and cover the full range from high-end ritzy spas to an old granny in the back of a grocery store. So, ease your limbs from climbing up and down all those steps at Angkor and try one out. (If in doubt, most large hotels will have their own in-house service.) Most are extremely reasonably priced, a few relatively expensive so it depends on how much extra you want to pay for piped dolphin song or jasmine incense sticks. We’ve never had a bad one and don’t worry – this is Siem Reap, not Pattaya!
10. Coffee shops
Interspersed among the massage parlours, you’ll also notice a profusion of coffee shops and bakeries – again, some simple pavement stalls and others ritzy, air-con establishments. A non-energetic ‘see and do in Siem Reap’ option then is to just sit back and watch the town go by with an iced mocha and or slice of mango cheesecake. There are plenty of independently run, local cafes, so we’d avoid certain of the fancier ones where a cappuccino and croissant cost the equivalent of a day’s wages and the flavour isn’t necessarily any better.
