Wilpattu National Park

Wilpattu National Park

Wilpattu National Park is one of Sri Lanka’s oldest national parks, as well as its largest, and since its original creation in 1938, has grown to cover an area of some 1,300 square kilometres. (This may appear small compared to certain parks elsewhere but bear in mind Sri Lanka is a small island.) With myriad lakes, or willus, and extensive forest cover, the park is also one of the country’s most picturesque and is home to no less than 31 mammal species including, notably, leopards, sloth bears and elephants as well as myriad bird species.

Yet, despite Wilpattu National Park’s bucolic landscapes and abundant wildlife it sees a fraction of the number of visitors of for example, Yala West, Udawalawe, Minneriya or Horton Plains National Parks. The latter is a case apart as with its cool upland plains and spectacular World’s End viewpoint, the park is primarily a destination for hiking rather than jeep safaris, while Minneriya stands out for its unique, dry season, ‘elephant gathering’. Yala and Udawalawe certainly possess rich wildlife but are situated in a rain shadow region and the terrain tends towards dry scrubland. They also get very busy during peak months.

Location plays an important role, with the latter parks situated close to the south coast beach resorts, Horton Plains within easy access of popular Ella and Minneriya conveniently located nearby the World Heritage sites of Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya. Wilpattu, however has a rather remote location in the more off-the-beaten-track northwest of Sri Lanka. In terms of tourist traffic, the park suffers from not being on the way to anywhere else. (UNESCO-listed Anuradhapura ancient city lies a short distance east but sees a fraction of the foreign visitors that the major ‘Cultural Triangle’ sites receive.)

While perhaps not so great for the local economy, this is a significant plus for the visitors who do make it up that way, as anyone who’s tried visiting Yala during high season would testify. Not only are the landscapes you’re driving through scenic but views aren’t obstructed by dozens of other jeeps and consequently, shyer species are also more likely to be spotted.

Wilpattu on our group tours

With significant improvements in both the economic and political situation in Sri Lanka in recent times, tourism has correspondingly boomed so we’ve elected to move all our national park safaris to more off-the-beaten-track Wilpattu. This includes both our seasonal variants, Sri Lanka World Heritage and Island of Serendipity, as well as our Sri Lanka family tour.

Availability permitting, our accommodation is ‘glamping’ style at a tented, forest camp just outside the park boundaries, with the programme comprising an afternoon arrival, an introductory briefing and time to settle in before afternoon tea. An al-fresco dinner is followed by an optional night walk around the camp area. Comfortable tents are furnished and come with en-suite bathrooms and fans.

As the early bird catches the worm – or in this case spots the leopard – we’ll be up at the crack of dawn to reach the park entrance for its 6.00 a.m. opening time. (Our takeaway breakfast will be a bit later in a picnic area near the park’s centre.) While, obviously, no sightings can be guaranteed, leopards are frequently seen, while jackals, buffaloes, deer, elephants and crocodiles are common, along with painted storks, adjutants and various ibis and raptor species. (Shy sloth bears are occasionally spotted.)

We’ll return to camp mid-morning for a shower, check-out and an inevitable cup of Sri Lankan tea, before a return drive to Negombo on our May to October version or a continuation to Anuradhapura and Sigiriya on the November to April itinerary. Our favourite national park makes for a wonderful experience and a clear highlight of our Sri Lanka tours or indeed any visit to the island nation.