Red Hmong of Lai Chau
Continuing westwards from the Flower Hmong of Ha Giang and Black Hmong of Lao Cai we reach Lai Chau Province and its colourful Red Hmong of Lai Chau.
Their villages are quite widely spread across the northern and central parts of the province, being replaced to the south and west by Tai and Lao subgroups. Occasional White Hmong villages can be found, especially close to the Lao border, whilst Blue Hmong make an appearance as you approach Son La. (Red Hmong can be seen in small numbers at various local markets across the region but there’s no one main ‘centre’ like Bac Ha or Sapa.) The bright clothing and often spectacular hairstyles, however, make the Red Hmong one of the most distinctive of all Hmong sub-groups. Whilst the women appear very attached to their traditional garb, unlike Black Hmong men, you’ll practically never see any of their male counterparts in anything other than Western clothing, even on special occasions. (The couple below were photographed at a New Year festival.) Note the unusual pleated black, ground-length ‘pinafore’ – de rigeur for Red Hmong women.
Red Hmong couple on their wedding day. Obviously generalising but it’s interesting to note that the various sub-groups of the Hmong family can demonstrate very different characters and the Red Hmong of Lai Chau are notoriously shy and retiring, whilst anyone visiting Sapa will notice immediately that shy’s the last word to describe the very outgoing Black Hmong! Red Hmong women are also very loath to have their photos taken! (The husband above actually asked us to take their photo.) Not that they’re not friendly – just shy and to prove it, below is a pic of a great fun Red Hmong New Year party we were very kindly invited to.
Wedding party, Lai Chau District Photos taken on an All Points East, ‘Mountains and Hill-tribes‘ tour to northern Laos and Vietnam.
Update: Lai Chau featured on an older version of the above-mentioned itinerary. For all our up-to-date Vietnam small group tours please check our Vietnam destination page.
