Cheow Lan Lake, Khao Sok, Thailand

Cheow Lan Lake

Cheow Lan Lake covers some 185 square kilometres of Khao Sok National Park, located in South Thailand’s Surat Thani Province, and features some of the country’s most spectacular limestone landscapes. The Lake was formed in 1987 after the construction of the Rajjaprabha Dam and as such could be sited as one of the rare examples of natural landscapes actually being improved, rather than degraded, by the hand of man.

Of course, the dramatic karst formations have been there for hundreds of millions of years but today’s views are certainly enhanced by the surrounding turquoise waters. Although the National Park had already been established by the time of the dam’s construction, the now flooded valleys would have contained farms, villages and plantations, rather than large stands of primary forest. The reservoir’s original purpose was to generate hydroelectric power, as well as to help control flooding and irrigation, but serendipitous secondary benefits – apart from creating a stunning landscape – include protecting existing flora and fauna. Former valley trails that would have facilitated deforestation and hunting are also now under 50 to 60 metres of water.

While some wildlife, initially trapped on smaller islands or trying to escape rising waters, had to be rescued by boat and helicopter, the resulting inaccessibility of much of the area has meant that species have flourished. Khao Sok is considered to be the largest area of primary, tropical forest in southern Thailand and supports large numbers of elephants and primate species such as langurs, macaques and gibbons as well as rarer tapirs, bears, banteng and gaur. (The presence of tigers is still debated.)

Furthermore, popular Cheow Lan Lake has been a huge boon for the local economy and large numbers of the area’s residents are employed as guides and boatmen as well as in lakeside resorts, restaurants, coffee shops etc. (Our cynical side suggests that, without the present work opportunities, a number of these guides and boatmen may well now be engaged in hunting wildlife and/or cutting trees.)

A day tour of Cheow Lan features on what we’d say is our aptly named South Thailand tour, Mountains and Rainforests as well as both of our Thailand family tours, Jungles and Islands and Reefs and Rainforests. Most of the day is spent simply admiring the scenery from the boat; weaving in and out of the limestone islets and up and down the creeks and inlets including such features as the iconic limestone pillars, the ‘Three Brothers’ and the spectacular formations known as ‘Little Guilin’, (after the famous karst features in southern China).

There’s a stop at the head of one creek for a short hike through the forest to picturesque Coral Cave as well as a pause for lunch on one of the Lake’s floating restaurants. The trip also affords plentiful wildlife spotting opportunities along the shoreline with wild elephants a frequent sighting, in addition to deer, boar and monkeys. Plentiful bird species include hornbills and raptors such as kites and eagles. (Hot season is particularly rewarding as many species come down to the lake to cool off and bathe.)

All in all, a memorable day out.