Angkor-period Temples in Thailand
At its peak the Angkor Empire encompassed not only what is today Cambodia but parts of Vietnam’s Mekong Delta region and much of southern Laos as well as Thailand’s central plains, Chao Phraya Valley and the broad northeastern region known as Isan. (Issan, I-san, Isaan are all commonly seen alternative spellings.) Ancient roads radiated from the capital at Angkor connecting provincial cities and myriad Angkor-period temples in Thailand, as far north as Sukhothai, modern-day Kanchanaburi Province to the west, Petchaburi in the upper peninsula and northeast to what is now the Lao capital of Vientiane.
Historical Background
All these far-flung regions and their administrative centres featured temples, every major town had its own 12th century hospital chapel, or arogyasala, while routes were regularly lined with dharmasalas or resthouses for travellers and pilgrims. During his reign from 1181 to 1218, the prestigious king, Jayavarman VII (of Bayon and Angkor Thom fame), is recorded as having commissioned no less than 121 such resthouses and 102 arogyasalas across his vast empire. Many of these are now lost under paddy-fields or jungle but many survive in both Cambodia and Thailand. (Several have also been identified in southern Laos.)
Wat Chedi Jet Taew at Si Satchanalai began life as a Khmer, Hindu temple Certain of these Angkor-period temples in Thailand were associated with what at the time were border settlements; guarding the frontiers as well as facilitating trade with neighbouring kingdoms, while at its height, Jayavarman VI’s city of Vimayapura, (present-day Phimai), rivalled Angkor itself as the Empire’s northern capital. Additionally, in particular those provinces close to the present-day border such as Sa Keaw, Chanthaburi, Prachinburi and so on, are also home to many early sites, dating back to the pre-Angkor, 6th-7th century era, although these sites are generally not so well preserved.
Thai Angkor-period Temples Today
Unlike its unfortunate neighbour, Thailand has had a relatively peaceful recent history and its Angkor temples never served as battlegrounds in the same way as Angkor Thom or Ta Prom once did, while major sites avoided much of the widespread looting seen at remote Cambodian temples such as Banteay Chhmar or Prasat Bakan. It’s also significant that the more cash-rich Thai government and Fine Arts Department have had far greater resources available for the conservation and restoration of historic sites. Last but not least, Cambodia’s poor infrastructure, (although it is now improving rapidly), meant that locations were often very hard to access and indeed even today many sites, including the two aforementioned huge temples, see very few visitors. (After nearly 25 years of travel in Cambodia we finally made it to Prasat Bakan, the country’s largest ancient city, for the first time in 2024.)
That said, while pretty much all of the sites on our Angkor-period temples in Thailand list are accessible by good roads and generally come with excellent visitor facilities such as good eateries and decent accommodation options, many still see very few foreign tourists.
Note we use the Khmer/Sanskrit term prasat meaning ancient temple which is also widely employed in the Thai language while we’ve employed the standard Thai spelling phanom, rather than the Khmer version phnom.
Note, we’ve avoided any of the border sites, which have been the subject of recent bickering between Thailand and Cambodia, mainly to preempt any of the infuriatingly chauvinistic comments from either Thais or Khmers which might result! All our Angkor-period Temples in Thailand are uncontroversial located well within the country’s present borders.
Finally, our best Angkor-period temples in Thailand are simply in a more or less geographical order and do not reflect any particular preferences.
Phanom Rung, the main staircase 1 Phanom Rung – Buriram Province
We’ll begin with what is, along with Phimai, certainly the best-known of the Angkor-period temples in Thailand, Phanom Rung or Khao Phanom Rung. The Hindu temple is beautifully restored and in an excellent state of preservation and although the main, central sanctuary is not large, its dramatic setting is what makes the temple so spectacular. We have posted about this temple before but briefly, the mainly 11th century structure is situated on the summit of what is actually a long-extinct volcano so the main shrine sits on the summit while a sweeping sandstone, entrance staircase rises in steps up the side of the mountain. With no disrespect to our Khmer friends, Phanom Rung is certainly one of the most spectacular Angkor-period temples to be found anywhere.
2 Muang Tham – Buriram
Situated a mere 6 or 7 kilometres southeast of its more illustrious neighbour Phanom Rung, much lesser-known Prasat Muang Tham sees far fewer visitors which is a great shame as it is one of the country’s most picturesque and well-preserved, Khmer temples. The compact Hindu sanctuary is surrounded by a moat, which, if you get your timing right, is delightfully filled with dark pink waterlilies, while the towers, shrines and gates feature many intricate 11th century reliefs and carvings. The large reservoir or baray which backs on to today’s car-park is an original feature, dug at the same time the temple was founded, plus a subsequently added and still intact arogyasala can be found a short distance away.
Prasat Muang Tham, Buriram 3 Sikhoraphum – Surin Province
Probably dating to the early 12th century and reign of Suryavarman II, Prasat Sikhoraphum in Surin Province comprises another relatively small but lovingly restored temple. When he wasn’t busy with his masterwork Angkor Wat, this was one of the smaller, provincial temples the king commissioned and would have corresponded to a medium-sized, regional administrative centre situated aside one of the main transport routes. As a smaller Khmer outpost the Hindu temple was constructed in brick, rather than the more expensive and harder to transport sandstone, although several well-preserved sandstone lintels and carvings do remain in situ. The lintel above the main tower is stunning while we have a personal fondness for the carved apsara figure holding the lotus flower, seen in our side image.
This intricate depiction of a dancing Shiva figure is nearly 900 years old 4 Prasat Pueai Noi – Khon Kaen Province
Moving slightly northeast, the next entry on our Angkor-period Temples in Thailand list is the stunning, albeit rarely visited temple Prasat Pueai Noi in Khon Kaen Province. As with Muang Tam, this is another compact, modest-sized site in a charming setting of lawns, trees and a lotus-filled moat. Once again, the large reservoir you see to the immediate east of the sanctuary is an original feature, constructed in conjunction with the Hindu temple.
The sandstone sanctuary was likely built in the 11th century, during the reign of Jayavarman VI and is thus more or less contemporary with Phimai which lies further south. In situ carvings include a pediment depicting Shiva and Uma on the sacred bull Nandi and a reclining Vishnu image with Brahma emerging from the god’s navel. This is rather an off-the-beaten-track site and when we visited we had the entire place to ourselves..
Prasat Pueai Noi, Khon Kaen Province 5 Phanom Wan – Nakhon Ratchasima Province
Another very overlooked temple, Prasat Hin Phanom Wan lies some 40 kilometres southwest of Phimai, close to the present-day provincial capital Nakhon Ratchasima, or Khorat for short. The medium-sized temple probably already existed in some form prior to an 11th century makeover by Jayavarman VI and presents a classic Khmer temple design of central tower with entrance porch surrounded by covered galleries with elaborate entrances or gopuras. The Shivaite temple is constructed in sandstone, indicating a site of some importance and indeed a collection of ancillary features including ‘libraries’, a ‘khleang-style’ reception hall and the obligatory baray or reservoir can also be found in the vicinity.
The 1000 year old Phanom Wan with not a soul in sight 6 Phimai – Nakhon Ratchasima
Ancient Vimayapura, present-day Phimai Town, in what is today Nakhon Ratchasima Province, was probably the birthplace and hometown of Jayavarman VI who ascended to the throne of the Angkor Empire somewhere around 1080 CE. However, it is significant that although no important structures were added at Angkor during his regency, much of the impressive walled city of Vimayapura, the main temple of Prasat Phimai itself and the numerous outlying shrines and reservoirs were all commissioned by Jayavarman VI. While a strategic geographical location engendered Phimai’s role as an important regional centre, it’s clear that for much of the mid-11th century, the city functioned as the empire’s de facto, and king’s personal, capital.
Consequently, the principal temple is a highly impressive one and while many historians point to Phimai as being a stylistic precursor to Angkor Wat itself, it displays certain unique architectural elements in its own right and in some respects even surpasses the slightly later temple. Note the huge sandstone blocks of the spacious entrance chambers and check-out the spectacular collection of massive, pictorial-style lintels at the adjacent Phimai National Museum.
Detail from one of the unique, high relief pictorial lintels from Phimai 7 Muang Sing – Kanchanaburi
Next on our Angkor-period Temples in Thailand list is way out west, close to the Burmese border in Kanchanaburi Province. Muang Sing represents an entire late 12th century town or settlement, constructed by Jayavarman VII as a far-flung border post or frontier town. Located on the banks of the River Khwae (or Kwai), the town would have served as a transport and trading centre as well as a garrison for border defense. As is the case at Phimai, the site comprises the city walls, main central temple and various secondary buildings although as a Jayavarman VII-period structure, the temple itself is Buddhist rather than Hindu.
Furthermore, in contrast to Phimai which is situated in the centre of a busy, modern town, Muang Sing has an uninhabited, rural location and the intra-mural area is filled by parkland. As with many late period structures, Prasat Muang Sing was constructed from laterite rather than sandstone and lacks the extensive reliefs and carvings of more centrally located sanctuaries.
Muang Sing on the banks of the River Kwai in Western Thailand’s Kanchanaburi Province 8 Prang Sam Yot – Lopburi
This late 12th century, Bayon-period temple, situated aside the railway tracks in central Lopburi Town, was until recently pretty much off-limits due to its resident clan of sometimes aggressive macaques. However, on our most recent visit, we were relieved to see that the city council had successfully relocated most of the troop and after an extensive clean-up operation, had reopened the interior of the temple to visitors.
The temple’s decoration was clearly never completed so while the sandstone structure lacks intricate carvings, it is otherwise in an excellent state of preservation despite years of monkey abuse. (A few of them do add a certain charm but there were just way too many of them.)
Prang by the way refers to a typically Khmer-style tower. Definitely worth a look plus several additional ancient sites lie within a short walk such as Prang Khaek, the Kala Shrine and Wat Mahathat.
Prang Sam Yot, Lopburi 9 Wat Chao Chan – Sukhothai
Tiny, albeit picturesque and well-preserved temple situated in Chaliang ancient city in Sukhothai Province. Chaliang and adjacent Si Satchanalai are moated ancient settlements located a short distance north of better-known Sukhothai and form part of UNESCO’s Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns listing. Most of the monuments visitors see today date from the 13th to 14th centuries but said historic towns already existed during the period of Khmer administration and many of the temples also originally date to that era.
Although the 12th century Khmer sanctuaries were Buddhist, they were of the Mahayana variety while subsequent Thai temples were Theravada. Corresponding religious sites are very different in style so 13th century makeovers, (after the revolting locals had rid themselves of their overtaxing Khmer masters), means that with most monuments, little of the original structures is discernable today. Chao Chan however, despite a few tweaks, still retains the form of a classic Angkorian arogyasala or hospital chapel. The town’s 12th century ‘hospital’ would have comprised wooden structures and an arogyasala was the small temple associated with said hospital.
The site is another small one but again is just part of a sprawling ancient city containing a large number of temples and shrines. Definitely worth a visit.
Picturesque Wat Chao Chan, Chaliang, Sukhothai 10 Prang Si Thep – Petchabun
Our final listing is another somewhat off-the-beaten-track site, Prang Si Thep in Si Thep ancient city, located in central Thailand’s Petchabun Province. Despite receiving UNESCO World Heritage status in 2023 the extensive ruins still rarely receive any foreign visitors. (Surprisingly a central location means the province is generally bypassed as the main tourist draws are south of here – Bangkok – or some way north in the case of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.)
The shrine itself, small but relatively well-preserved, isn’t very exciting in its own right but as with above, the collection of various sites within the area of the ancient city, set amid trees and lawns, is impressive. These include massive, 6th century Dvaravati brick stupas and three intact 11th Khmer sanctuaries.
Prang Si Thep in Central Thailand’s Petchabun Province. Angkor-period Temples in Thailand on our tours
Visits to both Phanom Rung and Muang Tam – as well as a stop at Sikhoraphum – are all featured on our Thailand World Heritage, Isan tour, which also includes the UNESCO-listed sites of Ayutthaya and Khao Yai National Park. (The same itinerary forms the first section of our Thailand and Cambodia tour, the Emerald Triangle.)
A 3-day tour of Kanchanaburi Province, including Muang Sing city and temple, is included in our southern Thailand, Mountains and Rainforests while our Hidden Thailand, northern tour takes in the main site of Sukhothai although does generally miss remoter Chaliang due to time constraints. The ancient cities of Phimai, Si Thep and Lopburi are all available as extensions to our standard, scheduled Thai tours, so, for anyone interested just have a word with our office.
