Cambodia World Heritage Sites
We’re delighted to see that since we originally wrote this post, the number of entries on the UNESCO Cambodia World Heritage list has doubled with the addition of Sambor Prei Kuk in 2019 and Koh Ker in 2023. While this means additional funding as well as expert assistance in terms of restoration and maintenance, it also, in theory, should raise the sites’ profile and public awareness and increase visitor numbers. (Thus improving ticket sales and providing more employment opportunities for local residents.) However, in our experience, this has not necessarily been the case, and we doubt entrance ticket sales, to foreign visitors at least, have increased much in either case since their inscription. Good and bad, as while no one likes being surrounded by lots of other tourists, it hasn’t provided much of a boost for local residents in what are both rather remote and somewhat impoverished rural areas.
Apsaras of Angkor Wat Angkor
First and still very much foremost, is Angkor or the Angkor Archaeological Park, to give it its full name. The famous temples were added in back in 1992, covering some 400 square kilometres and comprising scores of temples, including famous ones such as Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prom and Preah Khan as well as a host of smaller, lesser-known sites.
Preah Vihear Temple Preah Vihear
The inscription of Prasat Preah Vihear on the Cambodia World Heritage list in 2008 did cause a few issues as the spectacular 11th-century temple is situated right on the border between Cambodia and Thailand. The UN concurred with old French maps and placed the temple in Cambodia, however, the new access road they had constructed definitely passed through Thai territory. Prior to this, the only practical access was via Thailand, although as a result of the contretemps, the Thais closed the crossing. The Khmer-built road up the mountain to the clifftop temple is nevertheless still functioning and new routes now connect Preah Vihear to Siem Reap, making a (long) day trip feasible.
The remarkably well-preserved temple is stunning and the views awe-inspiring so, well worth the trip even if, in our opinion it’s better to overnight in the nearest town, Sra-em.
World Heritage Sambor Prei Kuk, Kampong Thom Province Sambor Prei Kok
Another superb site, well deserving of recognition. Sambor Prei Kok, with its myriad brick towers scattered throughout the forest, is both a delight to visit and a historically vital site corresponding to the 6th and 7th-century Chenla capitals of Bhavapura and Ishnapura – the earliest Khmer cities established in what is now Cambodia. Roads have been upgraded and the site is now easily accessible and, despite the ravages of time and intensive B52 bombing, contains some remarkably well-preserved towers and carvings.
The Jayavarman IV temple of Prasat Bram at Koh Ker Koh Ker
Koh Ker is unusual amongst Angkor sites in that it presents a remarkably homogeneous collection of major monuments, representing the early 10th-century capital of Jayavarman IV. The majority of its numerous temples were all built during a brief 20 to 25 year period without the additions, amendments and redesigns that other major sites feature. Architectural style features large, free-standing statues, rare elsewhere in Khmer art and gave rise to the eponymous Koh Ker style. The numerous impressive sandstone buildings have been largely cleared of jungle and demined, the access road improved and visitors to this remote site are now filtering in. A spectacular 1,100-year-old stone city in the jungle – not sure why UNESCO waited so long?
Sites on the Tentative List
Four entries on the Cambodia World Heritage list may sound somewhat meagre for a country which, albeit small, has such a rich archaeological heritage, though we did notice that it has no less than 7 additional inclusions on the tentative list. As you may imagine, this is principally a series of ancient temple sites but, before having a look at those, we’ll mention a natural site which to our minds would be well worthy of inclusion; Prek Toal. Not only does this region on the edge of the great Tonle Sap Lake include what is one of Asia’s most important waterbird sanctuaries but it also incorporates a vast and well-preserved area of flooded forest, flood plains, marsh and swampland, which is to say an increasingly rare landscape and unique ecosystem in Southeast Asia. Indeed, the lifestyle of the local people with their still very traditional floating villages is also now rarely seen in Southeast Asia.
One of the central towers at Banteay Chhmar Banteay Chhmar
No arguments with this Cambodia World Heritage list suggestion; – a huge, late 12th century, classic style temple with superb carvings and the iconic giant faces in a jungle setting in far northwestern Cambodia. Access is much improved, clearance allows for an easier visit and consolidation work has been undertaken, although at present it still receives very few visitors.
Rainy season at Beng Melea Beng Melea
Ditto above and one of the most spectacular of any Angkor period temples. Yes, it’s in a very ruined state, but that adds to the Indiana Jones charm and as another of the largest and most complex Khmer temples, this 12th-century complex is surely deserving of being upgraded from tentative to full?
The east gate, Prasat Bakan. Preah Khan, Kampong Svay
Little known and rarely visited, Preah Khan (also known as Prasat Bakan), lying to the northwest of Kampong Thom Town, is actually the largest temple in Cambodia. Containing 11th and 12th-century elements this sprawling complex is still difficult to access due to a remote location and poor roads so UNESCO listing would provide much-needed funding to both improve access and prevent further deterioration of this majestic, yet much pillaged, site.
Phnom Da and Angkor Borei
An interesting addition – undoubtedly of great historic significance since these two adjacent sites in Takeo Province represent the location of the 6th century capital of the powerful pre-Angkor Funan kingdom, yet in reality, not much remains. Phnom Da has two interesting, albeit small, towers, one of which dates to the mid-6th century, but the ancient capital itself is situated underneath the contemporary town of Angkor Borei and little can be seen aside from some remnants of crumbling city walls. Some superb statues have been discovered in these parts and it’s certainly deserving of far more investigation but it is rather difficult to imagine, as a World Heritage Site, what it would actually consist of.
Oudong
Same goes for Oudong really; as a site of the national capital prior to Phnom Penh, there’s historical importance, but again there’s very little on the ground: a few bricks hinting at an early, maybe pre-Angkor tower and some stupas containing ashes of 19th-century kings. The latter have been ‘restored’ several times and coated in concrete and new plaster, whilst much of the surrounding hill is little more than refuse-filled scrub so difficult to see anything here that would impress many UNESCO inspectors.
Oudong S21 – Tuol Sleng
Phnom Penh’s famous, or infamous, Genocide Museum, Tuol Sleng is certainly something a bit different amid the list of ancient temples It is hard to argue with the historical significance of the site however, that said, the museum is already well-known and already sees enough visitors and it’s hard to see the need for either publicity or additional funding. Indeed, it has always appeared reasonably well-managed to us and without debating its cultural and historical importance in any way, we’re uncertain if UNESCO listing is necessary in this case and might be better aimed at more threatened, underfunded sites.
Ancient carved animals at Sra Damrei, Kulen Kulen
Last but not least is the fascinating site of Phnom Kulen and that’s certainly one spot where there is plenty to see: National Park, a sacred mountain, the River of a Thousand Lingas, location of a ruined 8th/9th-century city and an area of outstanding natural beauty – Kulen ticks a lot of boxes. However, despite already having national park status, Kulen is a site that is in desperate need of some expert management. At present, deforestation is rampant, ticketing is largely in private hands and development is, to put it politely, ad hoc. As usual, this is a question of a lack of expertise and a shortage of funds.
Some of the above sites need urgent attention and we feel expanding Cambodia’s UNESCO site list ASAP is vital, in so far as it would firstly provide essential funding to a poor country, furthermore allow some expert advice, whilst importantly helping to spread tourism away from the over-concentration on Angkor. We realise UNESCO probably has a lot on their plate, but some of the sites can’t wait, so, putting it crudely -get your finger out, guys!
